[QUOTE=RussellR] I too have managed to break the Lexan ones, I really like the stainless version.
Mattia
I gently heat with a hairdryer to remove the tape.[/QUOTE]
Now ya tell me!
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| Fretting Templates: SS vs. Lexan? http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=4749 |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 1:54 pm ] |
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So I'm getting ready to begin doing my own fret slotting as soon as Shane ships the blades. Stewmac carries stainless steel and LMI supplies Lexan fretting templates. Intuitively, I'm inclined to go with the metal but was wondering what others prefer. BTW, Shane...any update on the blades? |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 2:08 pm ] |
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I guess either would be good, looks like both companies supply the same scales. The only thing may be the difference in the indexing pin. It doesn't say on the LMI site what the pin size is, so if you have one templete from one supplier and another from the other, you may need to have two indexing holes on your sled. No big deal realy. I would think the only down side to the stainless steel template would be that it could be bent, but if you dropped it, it wouldn't break, although lexan is very tough and most likely wouldn't break either. That's a tough one, it may come down to price for me as I'm setting up for the blade from Shane like you JJ. |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 7:07 pm ] |
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I've managed to break two lexan templates (too much double-sided tape...I never learn!), so I'm happy with the stainless steel one from StewMac. Only thing I 'worry' about is that the metal can expand and contract, but then again, that's what a climate controlled shop is all about, right? |
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| Author: | RussellR [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 8:44 pm ] |
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I too have managed to break the Lexan ones, I really like the stainless version. Mattia I gently heat with a hairdryer to remove the tape. |
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| Author: | KiwiCraig [ Thu Jan 26, 2006 11:09 pm ] |
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The lexan ones from L.M.I. also move with temperature changes. A note on the L.M.I. instructions " " templates are temperature sensitiveand should be used at 65 -- 72 degrees F. KiwiCraig |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 12:25 am ] |
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[QUOTE=RussellR] I too have managed to break the Lexan ones, I really like the stainless version. Mattia I gently heat with a hairdryer to remove the tape.[/QUOTE] Now ya tell me!
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| Author: | tippie53 [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 12:38 am ] |
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Lexan will move alot more than lexan in temp. I to am looking at these and plan on making some. I am debating on a table saw or radial saw set up. john |
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| Author: | crazymanmichael [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:24 am ] |
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i have some of each. when i bought the ss one from s-m it took three tries to get one which was not bent. s-m was accommodating as always but was just not paying attention to details. in use i prefer the plastic. they are thicker and the thickness of the fb is not as critical relative to the height of the indexing pin. that is to say that the pin will engage the notches for a wider range of fb blank thicknesses. |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 5:27 am ] |
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John: Lexan will move a lot more than steel, or steel will move a lot more than lexan? 'cause that's kinda vague righ now 
Michael: that's a good point for those using table saws. Hadn't thought of that. It's not really an issue with a mitre box, though... |
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| Author: | Shane Neifer [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 5:37 am ] |
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Howdy! I placed the blade order on 6 January. They said 6 to 8 weeks to make them to our specs, so they will be a bit yet. I too am anxious! I bought some 3/16 plexiglass that I am going to try and make some templates from. You can down load WFRET from the MIMF site as a freeware program. It gives you the tables and also presicely prints out a scale length with a fine line. I am going to use that program to make my own scale length templates, first in plexiglass and if it is too fragile then of 3/16 or 1/4 inch aluminum. I am just going to use a thin kerf table saw blade to cut the notches. I will include all of this in a 'How To' with the blades, along with the sled. I will be working on this in the next couple of weeks. Shane |
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 5:47 am ] |
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I'm thinking he meant steel will move more than lexan. That said, neither are wood, and the amount of movement should be insignificant unless you're working outside in the snow or the hot sun... |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 6:02 am ] |
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Thanks, Shane. The blades should be available at about the same time that Lee Valley has the 5" blade stiffeners. They're currently on backorder. I was planning to make a sled similar to that which Sylvan posted in the jigs section but I just may wait until I see Shane's design. I'll probably go with the SS template from Stewmac. The temperature movement is not an issue...otherwise my SS scales and rules would be all messed up as well. Thanks for the feedback. BTW, John...when are you planning to offer fretting scales? |
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| Author: | Shane Neifer [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 6:13 am ] |
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Wow! there must be a bit of a rush on the blade stabilizers! I bought two sets a week or two ago from the Vancouver store but they mail out from Ontario only I think. I will get at teh sled and templates and let everyone know how it goes. Shane |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 6:20 am ] |
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One more thing...about the WFRET program that Shane mentioned. Is it possible to just print out a scale, glue it to the fretboard, align the fret line to the kerf line and slide it through? Do that for each fret position. Throw out the old printing and use a fresh one for the next FB. Someone tell me why this wouldn't work...I may be missing something. |
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| Author: | Shane Neifer [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 6:37 am ] |
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JJ, It would, it is just that you have a lot more concentration required to ensure that each fret is lined up perfectly. When you make a template, you work hard to get it right once, and then after that it should all go easy! Shane |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:15 am ] |
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I have a large piece of 1/4" acrylic that I plan on making templetes with same as Shane, I have access to a 24" vernier caliper and I will layout 2 scales on the piece and take the time to cut on the table saw accuratly, than I should be good to go. I am lucky enough to be only 45 mins drive from Lee Valley in Vancouver and I picked my stiffeners up about 2 weeks ago. No shipping charge either. |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:17 am ] |
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One thing with the WFRET program, don't assume that the print is correct, make sure you messure it before you cut (my motto is messure 5 frikin' times, and I still cut it wrong), I tryed it on my first build and upon measuring, I found that it wasn't accurate enough so I scrapped it. |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:14 am ] |
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I would think accuract with Wfret depends in part on how precise your printer is. |
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| Author: | Shane Neifer [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:43 am ] |
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Rod's point is well taken though, use your calipers and check the print out. That's is what I do anyways. My calipers are only 4 and 6 inches but if it is accurate over six inches and in each of the individual spaces, then I will probably be OK. Shane |
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| Author: | Serge Poirier [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:28 am ] |
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Shane, i'm going to Lee Valley tomorrow, so will i have buy a pair of 5" blade stiffeners for my fret blade ? Just wanna make sure! TIA Serge |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:32 am ] |
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Yes Serge, you will want to get the 5" stiffeners for this thin blade. |
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| Author: | Mattia Valente [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:35 am ] |
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Shane, if you measure fret to fret, even 'just' on a template, you're still risking compounding the error. |
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| Author: | KenMcKay [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:39 am ] |
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I am looking forward to recieving my blade also. I am pondering making a template that can be angled to shorten the scale length to any possible length. There is an article in the Big Red Book of American Lutherie 1 page 188. Fret Slot Template Bar by Richard Ennis. That way I can make a large scale, 35 inches or so, and angle it more to get any lenghth scale. I would think one of you toolmaker types could make a simple one for sale. Or draw up some nifty plans to make one out of plywood an stuff. I could have a hinge so it stays put or some other fancy idea. |
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| Author: | arvey [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:12 am ] |
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JJ. At present that is how I do it. Just print out with Wfret and cut. But I cut by hand too. Very accurate to date but too slow. |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:41 am ] |
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Once I get the blade and build the sled I need to practice on scrap anyway, so I may just include the glued on paper method in a few trials...and then decide on buying or making a template. |
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